Everything’s simple and stripped back at St. JOHN’s iconic flagship, set in an old smokehouse just north of Smithfield meat market. There are whitewashed walls, industrial-style lights, and bare floorboards, which is how things have been since it opened back in 1994. Even so, it’s one of London’s most hospitable addresses, with its own reassuring routines; visit mid-morning and you’ll likely find chef Fergus Henderson sitting at the bar, enjoying a Madeira and slice of seed-cake (both fixtures on the menu here).